Multiplicity

This photo is an example of ''Multiplicity'' in photography. This photo was done on the college campus and this is how I did it. 

Firstly, I put my camera on a tripod and then I focused my scene of where I was shooting it. You can shoot in any mode you want to but taking photos in a full manual mode or aperture priority mode insures that each frame will have a consistent exposure and your aperture locked in. After everything was in focus and I had my shutter speed and aperture set,  I took a picture of the scene with the model to the right to the frame and the following the exact same and I was done. 

Shoot for Final Piece

These are images that I shot for my final piece. I took numerous of different poses, from different angles and positions so that they're not just all the same. I put them into a contact sheet which is done by Photoshop so that you can see all them nicely. 
I like the images that I shot as I think that I got the correct exposure for this shoot but obviously not including the first few images that you can see which are extremely overexposed which was done by accident but by still adding them to my contact sheet, it shows improvement. 

Project Plan

For my project plan, I am going to involve double exposures, red and blue channels and create a 3D effect using Photoshop. I wanted to do this exposure as I think that my piece will explore the 'stereotypes' of women and how these are being subverted within society. The image will force the viewer to see the model in a new way, creating an interactive experience. By seeing a 3D image, this makes the model a 'real' person and forces the audience to reconsider how they view the photograph.

Text

Step 1 

Open a photo to place inside your text. I used a forest image.

Step 2 

If we look in the layer palette, you can see that we only have one layer at the moment, named 'Background'. This layer contains our image. You need to duplicate this layer and once that is done, you should now have two layers. The original background layer is on the bottom, and a copy of the background layer, which Photoshop automatically named ''layer 1'', is above the original layer. 

Step 3 

For this step, you need to add a blank layer between the two layers that we have already got. To do this without Photoshop automatically adding it above 'layer 1' is to hold ctrl (win) / Command (mac) key and click on the new layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette and your new layer should be between the two layers. 

Step 4 

Fill the new layer with white. To do this, go up to the edit menu at the top of the screen and choose fill. This will bring up Photoshop's fill dialog box. Select white for the contents option at the top of the dialog box, then click ok to exit out of the dialog box and that layer will be called 'layer 2'. 

Step 5

Select 'layer 1' in the layers palette so that you can add your text, you will need Photoshop's 'Type' tool from the tools palette. With the type tool selected, go up to the options bar at the of screen and choose whichever front you want to use your for your effect. 

Step 9 

With the type tool selected and your font chosen, click inside your document window and add your text. You can type whatever you chose to, I have just used my name for this technique.  Once you have wrote your text, click on the check mark up in the options bar to accept the text.


Step 10 

I rezise and re-positioned my text with the free transform command. To do this, I pressed ctrl+T (win) / Command+T (Mac) on my keyboard to bring up the free transform box and handles around your text, then I drag any of the handles to resize my text. If you want to resize the text without distorting the look of it, hold down your shift key and drag any of the four corner handles.  

Step 11

Once my text was done the way I wanted it, I moved the type layer below the text in the layers palette. Click on the text layer, then simply drag it down below ''Layer 1''. You should see a thick black line appear between ''Layer 1'' and ''Layer 2'' and the type layer now appears between  ''Layer 1'' and ''Layer 2''.

Step 12 

Click once again on ''Layer 1'' in the layers palette to select it  and text will temporarily dissappear inside the document window now that the image on the ''Layer 1'' is blocking it from the view. 

Step 13 

To create the illusion that the photo is inside the text, we need to use a 'clipping mask'. This will 'clip' the photo on ''Layer 1'' to the text on the layer directly below it. Any areas of the photo that apperars directly avbove the letters will remain visible in the document. The rest of the photo will disappear from view. So I went to Layer>create clipping mask and once that was done, the photo then appears to be inside the text and you're done. 

Burn and dodge

Above shows an example of the 'burn' and 'dodge' effect that I did on Photoshop. All that this tool does is lighten or darken areas or the image. The tools are based on a traditional darkroom technique for regulating exposure on specific areas of a print. Photographers hold a back light to lighten an area on the print is called 'dodging' and to increase the exposure to darken areas on a print is called burning. The more you paint over an area with the dodge or burn tool, the lighter or darker it becomes. 

Applying the Dodge tool or Burn tool to the background layer permanently alters the image information. To edit your images non-destructively, work on a duplicate layer. 

Step 1 

Select the Dodge tool  or the Burn tool.

Step 2 

Choose a brush tip and set brush options in the options bar.

Step 3

In the options bar, select one of the following from the Range menu:

Midtones: Changes the middle range of grays

Shadows: Changes the dark areas

Highlights: Changes the light areas

Step 4 

Specify the exposure for the Dodge tool or the Burn tool.

Step 5 

Click the airbrush button  to use the brush as an airbrush. Alternatively, select the Airbrush option in the Brush panel.

Step 6 

Select the Protect Tones option to minimize clipping in the shadows and highlights. This option also tries to keep colors from shifting hue.

Step 7 

Drag over the part of the image you want to lighten or darken and you're done.

Polaroid

The picture above is an example of an 'Polaroid' image that I did on Photoshop and below is a demonstration of how I did it step by step. 

Step 1

Create a new file with these dimensions or similar: 
500 width 
600 height

Step 2

Go to file>place and place your image. 

Step 3

To get image to a 'old school' feeling, you first have to duplicate the picture layer and this will be your working layer (don't edit the original layer). 

Image>Adjustments>Hue/Saturation>Saturation -40

Image>Adjustments>Photo filter> Warming filter>Density: 50% 

In the bottom of your layer palette, there is seven buttons (the bin, mask, etc.). 

Go to the adjustment layer button, click on it and create a gradient map. By adding this layer, you can't play with the blending/opacity options because it's already on your picture. 

Once you have gotten your gradient screen on, search for the orange/purple gradient and press ok. Go to your blending options and change it to 'screen' with a opacity of 80%. 

Step 4 

For this step, I worked on the Polaroid by going to filter>New>Layer (or press cmd/ctrl + shift + n) and call it 'Polaroid'. Fill the layer with the colour of: fff7e7. 

Use the rectangular 'marquee' tool and create a nice square on the Polaroid layer and press delete and it will begain to look like a Polaroid. 

Select your photo group and move it until you have a the best piece of the picture in the square. 

Select your Polaroid layer again, go to blending options and click on drop shadow and put the following numbers in: 

We still have that hard line next to the drop shadow so create another square with your rectangular marquee tool, just a bit bigger than the square we have now but like 2mm bigger on all sides and the go to filter>blur>Gaussian blur>0.6 and press ok and the hard line should be gone.














Step 5

To make the Polaroid have the 'old' feeling, add the old paper texture and set the blending mode to 'multiply' with an opacity of 10%. 


Step 6 

I haven't done this step but if you would like your image to look even older and you want to vignette the edges of the picture then create a new layer (cmd/cntrl + shift + n) and take out your brush tool with an opacity if 25%. Drag the the layer beneath the Polaroid layer and brush around the inside edges of the Polaroid and you're done. 

Hue/Saturation

Hue/Saturation can completely change your photograph for the best or worst depending on if you don't get too carried away.  

Hue: Shifts all the colors clockwise or counterclockwise around the color wheel, depending on the direction you move the slider.

Saturation: Increases or decreases the richness of the colors in an image.
Lightness: Modifies the brightness values.

Below I demonstrate on how to get the finish look on Photoshop. 

Step 1 

Apply a hue/saturation adjusment to your photo. 

Step 2

In the adjustments panel or the properties panel, choose a colour from the menu to the right of the On-image adjustment button. 

Step 3 

You can either use the eyedropper tools or the adjustment sliders to modify the range of colour. If you only wanted to change a selective part then make sure you use one of the 'marque'e tools that highlights the parts that you want to hue/saturated and by this, it'll only change the bit you wanted it to and not the whole image.